Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Exploring the Karnataka Coast


Our trip

Let me start with how it started..
We had been planning to visit the Karnataka coast for more than a year. To be precise, this trip was in my bucket list of wanderlust. Finally somehow we had decided to have this trip in a long weekend of Jan 26th – 29th Jan 2017. Eswar and Varshini(BIL and his wife) would accompany us too!! Yuppie!! I was fully excited, started going through Google for the routes, things to do, places to visit etc..  Here comes to my shock, the news that “Shiradi Ghat will be closed from Jan 1st 2017 for four months”. When shared with Ram, he shrugged off saying.. “No Problem, let’s plan something else”..  Then, the Sakamuri brothers talked to each other to decide a destination.

All good now, Flights for Eswar n Varshini booked to and fro Bangalore. Shortlisting places, resorts etc began the very day.. But still I felt bad that I am not able to visit Karnataka coast.
Friday came, we left to Tirupathi, left Shree with my in laws and start back to Bangalore. Its only 2 of us this time to Bangalore.

Conversation in the car:
A: “Ram.. somewhere I feel low, we are not able to make to that trip”..
R: “Which Trip??”
silence spoke!!
R: “Oh Karnataka coast!!.. Not a big deal.. We shall go some other time..
A: “hmm.. you are saying the same from one year.. Now again we have to wait till 4 more months, then its summer and we can’t go to Mangalore till November..”
R: “ Ok let’s go now also, why worry.. See if you can take leave and we will plan accordingly, I still have 4 leaves left for this year”
A: “Ok!! I have 2 leaves for this year.. I will talk to my TL today, and let’s go!!”

We stopped at Maiya’s Kolar to grab some burgers where our friends Omkar, Daamu and Prasad are waiting for us. I shared with them our plan.Omkar, a motor bike traveler suggested us to be very cautious on the Shiradi Ghat. Previously our friend Seenu who is also a back packer had told us his horrifying experience with the same ghat.  Now we were in dilemma if we have to go by car or by air to Mangalore and then hire a zoom car. But then Ram fixed “We are going!! And its going to be a road trip from Bangalore”

First thing I did after I reach office on Monday is to talk to my  TL get my leave approved!! Now I need to list down things we need to pack/buy/plan and all.. After all we have only 3 days left for our trip!! 


Kasu, Duddu, Paisa, Money Money!! This going cashless after demonetization, has created a fear to go to ATM. We hadn’t stood for cash at ATMs for more than a month.
We can’t expect cashless transactions on highways.  My new colleagues readily helped me withdraw some cash each day along with me.  Hoping we will transact with card where ever we were half ready.

Our tentative plan for the trip was : Bangalore -->  Mangalore --> Udipi --> Murudeshwar --> Gokarna --> Karwar --> Bangalore.
 But, we had only 4 days in our hand. But we had no itinerary, might be because we didn’t have a weekend in middle to sort out. But this is what made our trip more fruitful and memorable.
I still remember how much we roamed to get some simple tablets in Goa. (No MANDULA shops only MANDHU shops all over Goa). So I never take a risk from then, carrying some basic medicines, snacks, food and drinks is always better. Even if you don’t use it. So the day before we shopped some basic things, and a new pen drive as we had lost the old one during Chennai trip. The usual chit chat, packing , copying songs etc made us awake till 1 AM. Obviously we did not wake up as we planned. 

Day One (22nd Dec 2016) – Bangalore to Mangalore via Sakleshpur, Shiradi ghat:
With last minute rush, somehow we started around 6:45 AM on 22nd December 2016. As we got down the lift, watchman helped us load the luggage into the car, and waved us “Saab!! Happy journey!! Stopped for petrol near Soul space arena,  Marathalli.

Journey starts!!


Ram was now irritated with the week day traffic and was regretting for getting up late. Hunger  added fuel to the flames. After we crossed Neelamangala, we stopped for breakfast at some hotel, and Mugambo kush hua!! 😁 . We continued our journey:  Hassan --> Saklespur --> Shiradi Ghat --> Managlore. The road was good till Haasan we drove 100 + and in fact reached 170, our top speed till date with our ‘Cherry’ :D

Its 170!! Only for few min though

From Hassan till Sakleshpur, the road was ok ok. Here comes the Shiradi ghat. The ghat was not so curvy but the road condition was very bad. With the river flowing on the left side of the road, I totally enjoyed the beauty of ghat.. We didn’t stop any where though, as the road was narrow.
Typical buildings at Sakleshpur

Shiradi Ghat

 We reached Manglore around 1:30, had lunch checked into hotel and took rest till 5 PM.
Later we started to Panambur beach, the beach was crowded and there was also a gathering happening sponsored by SBI at the entrance of the beach, we watched it for some time and spent some time till sunset at the same beach.
Some pics from Panambur beach:


Setting Sun

A ship and a bird - Ram's photo
After sunset, we headed Thannirbavi beach, the beach was calm, hardly had 15-20 people, there were benches arranged here and there. We sat on one of the benches.
Thannirbavi beach

Selfie time

 It was getting dark and we decided to leave to Pabbas’ - Mangalore’s famous Ice cream parlor. My colleague who is from this place suggested me some of the specials at the place. Once we reached there, we found some people waiting outside for some place inside, as we were only 2, they allowed us in. Our plan was to have ice cream, leave to Kudroli temple and then have dinner before going to hotel room. But the parlor served so much ice cream that we had to skip our dinner. 210 for 2 ice creams with good taste was a paisa vassol. 👆

Pabbas'
Tiramisu and Dil kush Cant remember which is which
Cant take a pic here with out a photo bomb, hence the kid n his mom

Later we reached Kudroli temple, a beautiful large temple - yellow lights adding more beauty to the place.
Kudroli Temple

Temple premises


We spent some time here and reached hotel and called it a night.



Day Two – (23rd December 2016)  Ullal -  Udupi -  Malpe - St.Mary’s Island -  Murudeshwar:
Next morning, we woke up around 5:30, started to Ullal, a small village/town at the border of Kerela and Karnataka. On the way to beach, the scenic beauty was awesome; we stopped at the Ullal bridge built on Netravati river for some pics.

Netravathi River from Ullal bridge
 From Ullal, a narrow road  with beautiful  big houses and coconut trees on both sides, led us to Someshwar beach. Having spent quality time at Ullal beach and Someshwar beach.

On the roads of Ullal





Sea side morning walk

A very good morning!!

Someshwar Beach view
Mr.Cool



 I asked Ram if we can drive to Batapady beach. The beach, along with the back waters by its side, really peaceful and unexplored. The place gives you a kind of solace. I didn’t feel like leaving the place. I am sure, you will love the calmness of entire Ullal town.

Ullal's beauty once again!!

Batapady back waters

Cherry - our car


Standing between Kerela and Karnataka!! In fact I got a message from my service provider “Welcome to Kerela” 😎

We rode back to our hotel room, had the breakfast (not so tasty one), freshened up and checked out. Unsure about our stay, if we will stay back in Udipi or will head to Murudeshwar, we started our journey. On the way to Udipi, we diverted to Suratkal beach.

We could see no one at the shore except some birds. Ram said “Surely there are some fish”. We got down the car, and starting walking towards the shore, the birds flew away as we neared. There were different kinds of shells at the shore, and these cute little star fish. We hadn’t seen star fishes ever like this. They were like at least 100 of them, some small, some large, some alive, some dead, some complete, some with broken arms. The live ones were trying to penetrate into the sand to escape themselves from being eaten by the birds and trying to escape along with the waves coming by. “Shall we take one home??” I asked. “They will not be alive till we reach Bangalore!” came the reply. 

Birds and their food

Trying to send some fish into water!!

Star star!!

Stars on shore


Played for some time at the beach.( No , we both are not fans of getting completely into the water, we know the after effects of going into sea water!! We had been in Chennai for more than 4 years you see!!! ). Just we went into the water till our knees. 

We could see the lighthouse like about 1 km distance; we headed to the lighthouse hoping they allow us up to have view of the beach. The security there said its open only from 4 PM till 6 PM, having nothing to do, we hit the highway and headed to Udupi.

NITK - Light house

The road was packed with coconut trees on both sides and back waters here and there on which bridges were built. The journey was eye pleasing. On reaching Udupi, we parked our car at a small lane, left foot wear inside the car and started walking. The heat on the streets was so horrible that we found it very difficult to walk on. We somehow managed to walk to the car street and entered the queue for darshan.
The queue was small and completed our darshan in about 20 mins. While coming out, Ram wanted to donate something for the temple. Only after donating a priest said “go inside and take left and show this slip, you will get prasada”. Ok.. Now we got inside, another bramhin accompanied us to a large hall with hardly 50 people inside , and served us sumptuous prasadam, or else we would not stand in so long queue for the annadana prasadam.

On the way to Udupi


Some back waters
It’s  time for some fun again.. We were at Malpe beach, just some  6-7 KMs away from Udupi, despite of the heat,  the beach was too crowded. Ram was eagerly looking forward for a ride to St.Mary’s Island. As we reached the shore, the guy who issues tickets told us, there must be at least 10 members for the ferry to start to island. Slowly within 15-20 mins, there were about 12 members and the ferry guy issued tickets(200 per person). The next 5 miniutes, we all were in the ferry and started to the island. Well, I was very scared with the waves, and the guy provided no life jackets and tensed till we reached St. Mary’s Island.

St. Mary’s island is a small island with coconut trees (also known as Coconut Island for this reason), 2 -3 shops and 2-3 huts or some shade kind of thing. The island is known for its rock formations, and the island was fully filled with lot of broken shells which gives beauty to the place. You can also find many fishes and other aquatic creatures near the huge rocks as the water is very clear. The boat guy told us to come back in 1 hour after exploring the place. As we walked, the other side of the island was fully crowded especially with college and school kids. Now we kept wondering before 6 o clock how are all these people going back to Malpe, guessed there would be lot of crowd while returning back  in the ferrys, which would be dangerous. We explored the island for about 30 mins, took some pictures and headed back to the place where the ferry dropped us. There were already about 5-6 people, and as we also joined we insisted the guy to start the ferry. Soon along with about 15 other people we started to Malpe.

Our ferry to St. Mary's.. India Boat

Reaching the island

Fishes, Shells, Waters

Rocks at St.Mary's

Rocks again

Only Shells



It was around 4:30 PM by now, nothing much was left to do here. So we decided to head to Murudeshwar. My requirement was to reach Marvanthare beach before its dark. We started back to Murudeshwar, now we were back on Kanya Kumari – Panvel National Highway. We reached Marvantare beach just before sunset, the specialty being the road is along the Arabian Sea on one side and Souparnika river flowing on the other side.

Some scenic beauty captured at Kapu village

Sun set at Padu village

Marvantharebeach

Marvanthare - Sea on one side, river on other side of road.

Another one from Marvanthare


 Till Udupi the highway was good, but from here, the road became narrow besides the road widening happening almost everywhere. So,  the narrow road, the huge trucks, the road repairs, the early sun set, it was very difficult for R to drive till Murudeshwar. On our way, I  tried booking hotels through MMT etc but couldn’t find any. I had also tried calling some hotels for vacancy and found no luck. Not sure what to do, as we approached the place, we moved towards temple to check vacancies. As we were passed by the bypass,  a guy stopped us and said all the hotels are full near the temple, you can check this hotel and decide. It was a newly built hotel(can’t recall the name), and was very neat. It also had car parking, our requirement was met.
Night view - from our room

After a tiring day, we checked into the hotel, had dinner and dozed off while watching Jabardast.



Day Three : (24th December 2016) Murudeshwar, Gokarna, Karwar, Davangere :
“Akhy, Tea is ready, get up.!” Said R. My lazy bones don’t wake up without bed tea.. :P . Sipping the super hot tea at the balcony, took pleasure in the view of Siva along with temple.

As we parked the car at temple parking, we now knew why there were no hotels vacant; the place was over crowded at the temple, park, beach and everywhere else. Always its ‘the tummy first’ rule, entered the restaurant and sat at a place with good view.

Slightly over rated place

Look!! Some fish are here!!


Statue park


We quickly completed the not so tasty breakfast. If you peep into the water, you can see number of different fishes swimming. The tea I had here was the worst tea ever.  Christmas holiday season  attracted many school/college tourists, due to the crowd we skipped the temple darshan. There are 2 lifts operating to the 18th floor of temple gopura with fee of 10 rupees, to have a sight of beach and the sea, but long queue here again was the reason to skip this too.

 The statue park has different statues depicting the legend of Gokarna and Murudeshwar temples.Roamed here for some time and reached the room to check out around 9:00 AM. Now we were on Kanyakumari – Panvel Highway again to reach  Gokarna.

With the banks of Aghanashini river switching sides, we drove to Gokarna. On the way, we diverted our route towards the mouth of Arabian sea, where this river joins. It was a beautiful location, no persons nearby except a few people busy fishing.

Aghanashini river.. on the way to Arabian
Some posing!!


 We drove to a very narrow road to God’s own beach, it was somewhat scary to reach there as the road was passing through a hill, just beside the beach.  Somehow, not feeling so comfortable to get down, we left to Gokarna.
God's own beach

As we neared the temple, the road was very narrow, with people all over and cows blocking the road. So again, parked car at one place, and started walking to the temple. The lane is full of shops on both the sides, with colorful dresses, chapels, antique pieces, musical instruments, bags, etc etc. At one point of time we were wondering why so many foreign tourists are here, we are in Goa or Gokarna.?! 😝😝😝
The temple was very crowded, and I found it very commercial as well.. Some purohits approach to you, trying to convince you they will take you to darshan, in 5 mins, make you touch the linga etc. Beware and be ready to be annoyed as well. After coming out of temple, we went to Vinayaka temple, at the end of the street, quickly headed to Om beach now.

Om beach was a 10 KM drive from temple, but was a very pleasant ride. We need to park the vehicles and walk down from there along the steps. But it was 12 PM already, and was sunny, found it difficult to walk down, but walking down was better than walking back up I have to mention. The beach had hardly 40-50 people, may be the time we went was wrong. There were a few shops and we both had lot of butter milk to satisfy the thirst. There were some water sports organized too. After spending some time here we were on track to Kudle beach.

Road to Om and Kudle beaches

Om beach

Kudle beach is just 1 KM from Om beach, this beach also is  down the hill, so parking on the hill and walking down to beach is same here as Om beach. But unlike Om beach, the way to the beach from parking is very deserted, and the trees and rocks along way. It was not so family friendly beach, and we were in 30 mins back to car.

Kudle beach

On the way to Kudle

Heading back to Kanyakumari – Panval highway again. .
R asked “ So, shall we start back to Bangalore? Is Karwar mandatory? We will be going to Goa next month, we can cover Karwar time na??”
Me: “Hmm.. We can go, but we can finish whole Karnataka coast on one go!! Its an accomplishment na!! Any way.. you are driving so you better decide.. I am good any way. “

Krishna Gadi veera prema gadha album just completed and Kushi album began with “Aadu vari maatalaku arthale verule”..
Ram said.. Me boss warn chestunnadu chudu.. Karwar veldam.. (It’s a typical telugu conversation which was apt to the situation, so who didn't understand please excuse”.


On the way to Karwar, stopped for lunch at Kamat. There was a petrol filling station which accepted cards there, so refilled petrol as well. The same highway here was now better, and the road to Karwar was very beautiful, cutting through some hills of western ghats. We surpassed the Naval base , Karwar port, Rabindranath Tagore beach( we didn’t stop here, seemed to be a routine beach actually), the sea view on the left side, we halted at Karwar Marine Aquarium, a poorly maintained one yet with different kinds of interesting fishes. We were not much interested to visit the Warship museum just a few meters away from aquarium.

on the way to Karwar

Karwar port

Sea view beside the road

Warship Museum


Now we were leaving to the last beach stop of our trip – Majali beach, which is near Goa border, just 6 KMs away. Passing the Kali river which poured herself into the sea here, we reached Majali beach.

Heading to Majali

Nearing the Kali river
Sitting inside, we cherished our travel of THE KARNATAKA COAST!!  The three days!! From 3 KMs to Kerela to 6 KMs to Goa!! Wow!! It was a lovely experience, a much needed trip..  
Day 4 : December 25th 2016: 
On our journey back home, we stayed at Davangere Saturday night – deliberately got up late, and reached home by 3 PM Sunday 25th December 2016..